The Sand Bar Rides a Changing Tide

The Sand Bar Rides a Changing Tide
By P.J.S. Dougherty
Wednesday, August 14, 2007

As Alligator memories fade, a new Ocean Beach hotspot arrives

Once upon a time, The Alligator club ruled Fire Island’s Ocean Beach as the premier nightlife hotspot. Eminently recognizable by its red exterior and goofy alligator mascot – giving the thumbs-up with one paw while holding a frosty beer mug in the other – The Alligator defined Fire Island beach debauchery at its peak in the late 70s and early 80s. Partying takes its toll, however, and by the 1990s, the Alligator appeared to have a hangover.

Rumors of a dispute and mutual boycott between The Alligator’s owner and local Ocean Beach residents swirled through the communities of Fire Island National Seashore, while the Alligator crowds gradually dwindled to nothing. For its last seven years of operation, The Alligator was virtually empty – save for the occasional wet T-shirt contest that only served to further alienate Ocean Beach locals. One could almost see a teardrop trickling down the mascot’s snout when The Alligator went up for sale in 2006. A legendary Fire Island travel destination was nearing its end.

Swooping in to purchase the dilapidated reptile was John Guadagno, an attorney whose family has owned Fire Island real estate for nearly a decade. With a vision to create something “truly different,” Guadagno has transformed The Alligator into the Sand Bar, a unique bar/restaurant that shares nothing of its predecessor’s history – except for the address. The Alligator’s doors may have closed, but the Sand Bar’s doors are now wide open.

Guadagno’s first step was to renovate the location with his own two hands – and in doing so, establish a new identity. “After buying The Alligator, my brother-in-law and I gutted the place and did a complete overhaul,” Guadagno explains. “I designed the Sand Bar with an Ocean Beach theme in mind.”

The Ocean Beach theme is subtle but effective: inside the Sand Bar, the front of the bar is painted to match the colors and style of the Fire Island ferry, complete with windows and railing. The faux ferry bar ends at a DJ booth that’s designed to look like the Fire Island ferry terminal, including a fence and sliding gate. Ocean Beach dunes are painted as a backdrop to the Sand Bar’s stage, while brightly painted tables and chairs and hanging red wagons convey the sensations of a Fire Island wagon park. As a final thoughtful Fire Island tribute, the Sand Bar’s support columns are Fire Island Lighthouse replicas, sporting the famous New York tourism landmark’s distinctive black-and-white appearance. Bright, airy and inviting, the Sand Bar’s aesthetic matches its mission: to provide a casual, family-friendly Fire Island chill-out spot.

In addition to a well-stocked bar, “We have a basic menu of light eating; wraps, sandwiches, and great burgers,” says Guadagno. Food and drink provide the Sand Bar’s foundation, but Guadagno acknowledges there are many other Ocean Beach establishments that offer the same. The Sand Bar aims to provide something above and beyond a standard Fire Island beach restaurant/bar: “I want to give people something to do,” Guadagno explains. “Of course, I’m looking to give people good food, but I also want to provide entertainment, even during the daytime . . . if you get a rainy day, there will always be something to do at the Sand Bar.”

“We have all kinds of games,” Guadagno continues, gesturing to a table piled high with every board game imaginable. “It’s not just for kids . . . adults will come in and play Battleship, and Jenga is hugely popular.” Special events and theme nights are also in the works for the Sand Bar. August 17-19th, for example, marks the Sand Bar’s first “Woodstock Weekend,” in which the Sand Bar will transform into a tie-dyed celebration of peace, love, and round-the-clock live music. Meanwhile, smaller theme nights are gaining popularity; Thursday nights are the Sand Bar’s popular “Lifeguard Night,” which feature live surf rock music and Fire Island lifeguard drink specials.

In the future, Guadagno plans on adding more theme nights, special events, and live entertainment. “People love live entertainment; here, we offer live music every weekend, even in the afternoon,” he says. “Moving forward, I’d like to offer entertainment every night of the week, and expand into comedy, karaoke, jazz . . . I believe that if the Ocean Beach community supports it, we can give them something truly different.”

Guadagno’s objective is clearly defined: to provide a welcoming Ocean Beach haven to relax, play games, eat and drink, and enjoy entertainment. Rather than the oft-exclusive, velvet-rope nature of its predecessor, Guadagno’s Sand Bar welcomes all: the young and old, families and singles, Fire Island rental tenants and longtime locals, and daytrippers fresh off the Fire Island ferry. “I tell all of these customers to let me know about their experience here,” Guadagno says. “I want to make everyone come in here happy and leave happy.”

When Guadagno speaks of earning Fire Island community support for the Sand Bar, his sincerity is unmistakable. Given the oft-contentious relationship between Ocean Beach locals and The Alligator, Guadagno acknowledges the inherent challenges in launching the a new venture in its place. “It’s a bit of a battle to let people know that now there’s a different owner,” he muses. “The Sand Bar is a different place . . . but come in and check it out, and I think you’ll like what you see.” Still in its infancy, the Sand Bar is nonetheless poised to outshine The Alligator—by exemplifying the laid-back, cheerful, and mellow spirit that so closely matches Ocean Beach’s true original essence.



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Matthew’s Seafood House Review

From the moment you set foot in Matthew's Seafood House, you get the sense that here is a restaurant that’s doing it right. They've had enough practice - one of the oldest eateries in Fire Island, New York, Matthew's Seafood House has been serving up fresh seafood delights for over 30 years. When I arrived with my friend Jenny, the mercury had hit about 95 degrees; the blazing Fire Island beach sun made it feel even hotter. The first thing I saw upon setting foot in Matthew's Seafood House was a chalkboard advertising a drink special: Frozen Mike's Hard Lemonade, $3.50 per. See what I mean about Matthew’s Seafood House doing it right?

Brett, the amicable, laid-back bleached-blonde host, led us to the outside dining area and sat us next to the bay, looking out over the private Matthew’s Seafood House dock. The ambiance of Matthew’s Seafood House is fantastic. The outside dining area has a Fire Island driftwood-and-boardwalk feel; casual yet stylish. As sunlight filters through the lofty green translucent roof, it casts an ethereal green glow over the entire dining area. This green glow inspired relaxation, provided shade, and had a subliminal "cooling" effect.

Matthew’s Seafood House is a choice piece of Fire Island real estate with stunning bay views; it is hard to imagine a more relaxing dining environment. The bay gently laps the shore, refreshing bay zephyrs meander through the tables, and you can watch the Ocean Beach Fire Island ferry arrive and depart, as visitors disembark and flock to Fire Island beaches.

Despite the calm, lazy summer feel at Matthew’s Seafood at lunchtime, there were hints of a more vibrant nightlife. A disco ball hung motionless, but Matthew’s Seafood House features a margarita night on Thursdays, when the sparkly ball starts spinning for the weekend. Matthew’s Seafood House’s sound system looked impressive - ready to rock out or launch an Ocean Beach Fire Island party. During lunch, soft, soothing jazz weaved a pleasing aural atmosphere.

Mike's Frozen Hard Lemonade ($3.50 . . . I had three for a bargain $10.50) - In the midst of a brutal heat wave, after baking in the sun on Fire Island beaches, these bottled malt beverages - frozen into a slurpee-like consistency and garnished with a wedge of fresh lemon - transform into pure orgasmic refreshment. Be careful though - I foolishly attacked my frozen drink with too much gusto and paid the price: 60 seconds of blinding brain freeze, the kind that makes you squeeze one eye closed and bang your fist on the table.

Hot Combo Appetizer ($19) - What better way to get a quick gauge of Matthew’s Seafood House’s approach to seafood? The hot combo included crab cakes, fried calamari, baked clams, and shrimp scampi. The crab cake is a barometer of a seafood restaurant’s chops. Crab cake mastery bodes well for the entire menu. Matthew’s crab cakes were outstanding; firm hunks of lump crab meat that flaked beautifully off the cake, which had a nicely browned crust. Calamari was A-OK, crispy and hot, perfectly cooked. The baked clams delivered art in consistency; the crust gave way to an interior that was hot, creamy and savory, all embracing a soft-yet-chewy littleneck clam. The shrimp scampi was on-point - sweet, meaty shrimp swimming in garlicky olive oil, just the way I like it.

Cajun Mahi Mahi Sandwich ($13) - It's amazing how good food can be in pure simplicity. Matthew’s Seafood House’s Cajun mahi mahi sandwich featured a generous slab of pan-seared mahi mahi and little else - which allowed the fish to shine through. Sublime simplicity. The firm white mahi mahi flesh had a vibrant red crust, having liberally rubbed with Cajun spices. The mahi mahi was very fresh; mild and light, with a satisfying, meaty texture. Each bite was balanced - a spicy wave of Cajun spice followed the delicate flavor of mahi mahi, adding a sense of adventure to the dish. I savored the spicy slow burn before cooling my palate with a sip of frozen hard lemonade. For a side, I opted for the pesto swirl pasta salad, which was cool, creamy, and intriguing.

Shrimp Stuffed Lobster Cold Platter ($28) - Across the table, Jenny pulled a succulent hunk of lobster tail from the shell, and selected a couple of shrimp for me to sample. I eyed her dish with envy. The presentation of her cold platter was dramatic; a lobster split lengthwise, stuffed and smothered with a salad of plump, juicy shrimp; sliced hard-boiled egg; fresh cucumber; and cool, thick tomato slices. Sensible woman . . . 95 degrees out and I chose a spicy mahi mahi sandwich; she chose a cold, refreshing platter that looked spectacular. I ordered another frozen hard lemonade to spite her before trying her dish. The lobster was firm and juicy; the shrimp were choice and sweet - an ideal dish to mitigate blistering heat.

Matthew’s Seafood House has impeccable service. Brett, our host, was friendly and attentive. His relaxed demeanor set a tone that others can only follow. Some Fire Island rental tenants dined next to us; other patrons cruised in by boat and docked at Matthew’s Seafood House for lunch. Brett treated each guest with the same welcoming smile, and everyone instantly felt at home. Our server apologized profusely for the entrees arriving shortly after the appetizers - but it was impossible to complain about our table creaking under the weight of so many delicious dishes.

Lunch at Matthew’s inspires one to return for dinner, to explore a fuller menu of mainly seafood fare. Attention to detail shines through in Matthew’s Seafood House menu - there are even suggested wine pairings with each dish; perfect for aspiring sommeliers. Matthew’s Seafood House’s relaxed lunch atmosphere turns bustling in evening hours, as Fire Island visitors, Fire Island renters, and Ocean Beach locals swarm to partake in one of the true original Fire Island restaurants. For lunch, the scene was mellow - which, for me, made Matthew’s Seafood House an oasis of pleasure in the middle of a sweltering Fire Island day.

The Albatross Review

Dining outside is advisable at Fire Island’s Ocean Beach Albatross restaurant. Snugly nestled a half-step off the main thoroughfare, the Albatross’s dining patio features a lovely view of a lush garden park. The patio is just secluded enough to grant some semblance of privacy while still allowing the entertainment of people watching, as Fire Island ferry travelers walk to their fire island rental homes and gear up for fun on Fire Island beaches.

As I browsed the menu, I wondered, why the name "Albatross"? I don’t know if Albatrosses are edible. They don’t live around Fire Island. An Albatross usually has negative connotations; it is a symbol of agonizing shame in Coleridge’s Rime of the Ancient Mariner. Even more than Coleridge, the Albatross reminds me of a classic Monty Python sketch where a concessions peddler is hawking a tray full of Albatrosses as a snack, calling out "Albatross!" to the audience as he walks up and down the stairs. Sadly these questions, along with other questions about the restaurant’s history and mission, went unanswered, as no one at the Albatross had time to speak with me.

The Albatross is popular among locals, with a menu encompassing everything from traditional pub-grub to more sophisticated seafood offerings. Seared Pepper Crusted Ahi Tuna, Lollipop Lamb Chops, Clams Casino - a diverse array of tempting dishes. I was hoping to get the inside scoop on the Albatross’s best dishes, but I was left to fend for myself. I browsed over a Heineken and enjoyed the scenery, eventually settling on the following trio, two of which came from the daily specials menu:

Shrimp and Lobster Bisque with Sweet Corn ($6) - Served in a decent-sized bowl, this offering was the chunkier-style bisque; thick and creamy, with bits of shrimp and lobster throughout. My ideal bisque is silky smooth, but I wasn’t complaining about this savory bowl. The bisque leaned heavily on the side of shrimp as far as a flavor balance, with corn accentuating the shrimp’s sweetness. A slow burn heat balanced the dish nicely; each spoonful had a mildly spicy delayed finish - satisfying.

Cajun Calamari ($12) - The texture of this calamari was absolutely sublime; as any calamari aficionado knows, preparation can be a dangerous game. Rubbery, tough, overcooked calamari is a culinary disaster. The Albatross Cajun calamari walked the narrow path of calamari success, deep fried to crispy perfection; fresh, piping hot, with a nice meaty texture and slightly crunchy outer crust. Despite the outstanding texture, the dish fell short on creativity and spiciness. Served with a ho-hum marinara, the calamari seemed to waste a golden opportunity for a creative Cajun dipping sauce. The Cajun/Italian cross-over lost me. The Cajun spice was visually apparent on the calamari, yet surprisingly, delivered no Cajun heat whatsoever. In fact, the bisque delivered more heat than the Cajun calamari. I love spicy foods, but the "Cajun" label on this dish was a cruel tease. Why, God? Why? Old spices - and I’m not talking the fragrance - lose their flavor, as do spices that are kept in poorly sealed containers.

Fish Tacos ($10) - Absolutely masterful. The beautiful presentation of this dish made me want to stand up and applaud; it was filled with color and style, reminiscent of a confetti party. The fish in these fish tacos was big, juicy hunks of tuna, marinated or tossed in lime and spices, and cooked medium-rare. Nestled in two warm, soft taco shells, these succulent hunks of tuna were slathered with diced tomatoes, chives, and tiny bits of red and blue tortilla chips, the crunch of which beautifully complemented the tuna’s juicy, meaty texture. A white sauce drizzled over the top added a beautiful aesthetic accent, along with a mild, creamy flavor. The fish tacos were served with jalapeño and radish slivers, along with sides of guacamole, sour cream, and salsa. Again, the salsa was embarrassingly weak on the spiciness - more like a sweet tomato jam than a spicy salsa - but flavorful and fresh nonetheless.

The Albatross’s ambiance was relaxing and pleasing. Service was prompt and courteous. A 13-year-old busboy was a very good sport in dealing with some One Ocean View (the Fire Island reality show that’s been all over the Fire Island news lately) cast members, who asked him if he thought a girl in their party was "hot."

In coming weeks, The Albatross will be a great alternative for those don’t wish to wait too long for a table - the Island Mermaid will likely be completely inundated from its reality show appearance; great for visiting reality TV show sightseers, but a must-avoid for anyone who wishes to be seated quickly and eat in peace.

However, The Albatross could still benefit from some attention to detail. I had a few tiny ants on my table, crawling near my plate - I’m not the least bit squeamish, so no problem for me - but a bug-phobic’s dining experience might be tainted by the ants. Also, the men’s room was covered with ugly graffiti, which diminishes the class of the entire establishment. A can of paint costs a few bucks, and it’d take very little effort to wipe out the graffiti with a nice fresh coat. Maybe I’ll go back and propose to paint the bathroom in exchange for some more fish tacos.

The Out Restaurant – Kismet, Fire Island Review

The Out at Kismet is one of the only Fire Island restaurants that can be reached by dry land – no Fire Island ferry necessary! Parking at Robert Moses State Park's Field 5, The Out is a short 20-30 minute walk away, with options of taking boardwalk, a sandy road behind the dunes, or a romantic stroll along the beach. Taking the behind-the-dunes route leads one right past the Fire Island Lighthouse, providing a spectacular view, worthy of a New York travel guide’s front cover.

The Out is straightforward. Founded in 1974, The Out gets its name from its across-the-walk competition, the 70-year-old Inn. The Out’s founder, a Cornell graduate who wisely chose the life of a “beach bum,” dubbed his restaurant The Out, reasoning "If there’s an Inn, there’s gotta be an Out.”

Arriving at The Out after a pleasant walk from Robert Moses Field 5, I told the hostess that I was “just one," looking for a table. Lee, the head hostess, swooped in out of nowhere and said, "We don’t like to hear that! You're not just one, you are special!" Lee's words made this "special" patron feel very good, and proved The Out’s menu history true, which states, "We have greeted and hosted many celebrities (just like you!)." Unfortunately, The Outside deck was jam-packed with people on a Wednesday night.

"Here," said Lee, beckoning. "Follow me, I have a special seat just for you." Lee led me into The Out’s spacious inside seating, and presented me with a spot at the corner of the bar, right in front of a wide window that featured a beautiful vista of the great South Bay, dotted with Long Island fishing boats, pleasure vessels, and Fire Island ferry boats. Enhanced by the declining sun, the view soon became lush and vibrant with dramatic shades of lavender, salmon, and red.

Agonizing over Blue Moon Wheat, Stella Artois, and Blue Point beer on tap, I settled on a pint of Blue Point Toasted Lager and perused the menu. The Out features theme nights during the week, including a Lobster Bash on Tuesdays and Clam Bake on Thursdays. As luck would have it, I was smack dab in the middle of “Windfall Wednesday" – a three-course pre fixe dinner, plus salad, rolls and a glass of wine, for $28. Windfall Wednesday seemed the proper thing to do.

Selection on a three-course meal was adequate; including clams oreganato appetizer, herb crusted salmon, simply grilled mahi mahi, and more – the regular menu emphasized seafood, with a tip of the hat to southern barbecue and steaks. I made my selection and ordered, drinking in the bay view and sipping at my beer.

Tuna Skewers: Two skewers, each with two juicy hunks of fresh tuna, lightly seared and sprinkled with sesame seeds. Accompaniments included wasabi foam, which had the flavor of mild wasabi and the texture of cool-whip; pickled ginger; and soy sauce. This selection evoked sushi, but did not quite achieve it -- regardless, it was a satisfying dish.

Clams Oreganato ($6.75, ordered separately from Windfall Wednesday): Five fresh clams baked in the half shell, with a topping of garlic, breadcrumbs, butter and Parmesan cheese. This simple recipe was executed to perfection, rich and savory, nice and heavy on the garlic, with that magical combination of crispy exterior and warm, garlicky, chewy interior.

Stuffed Half-Lobster & 10 oz. Sirloin. The half lobster was presented dramatically, piled high with seafood stuffing. Attacking the crustacean, I found that the actual lobster meat was skimpy, however – breadcrumbs dominated the stuffing, far outweighing the seafood, which ultimately conjured up the stuffing of a Thanksgiving turkey: light, fluffy, and delicately seasoned with sweetness. The sirloin, ordered medium rare, was slightly overdone – yet still juicy, tender and thick, with attractive criss-cross grill marks. Steamed cauliflower, broccoli, and baby carrots accompanied the entrée – which were so perfectly cooked, they reminded me how good a simple steamed vegetable can be.

Warm Brownie: A good-sized perfectly square brownie topped with a teaspoon of whipped cream and a drizzle of chocolate syrup. Expecting a simple dessert, I was taken aback by the brownie’s decadence – it was hot and gooey, like a confection pulled from the oven prematurely; like hot brownie batter. The molten center still possessed the expression of pure brownie; the sensation of granules of sugar, the thick, goopy chocolaty goodness. A superb conclusion to his solid meal.

The Out is a charismatic, casual restaurant. Its straightforward, honest nature defies the presumption of fancier restaurants, and perfectly complements the relaxed Kismet/Fire Island beach lifestyle. The Out’s Windfall Wednesday is one of the best values on all of Fire Island, and the economy of this deal made it easy to forgive some of the negatives – the lobster was not gourmet, nor was the stuffing. But for the price? Out-standing.

The good of The Out: service was top-notch. Adam, the bartender who served double duty as my waiter, moved with lightning speed and conducted himself with class -- how often do you hear a bartender say, "May I offer you something?" Lee, the hostess, was attentive and sweetly sincere – and she checked on me a few times to make sure that I was doing well, and was profusely apologetic for being unable to seat me outside.

Outside seating fills up quick at The Out, so arrive early for the best views of the bay, sunset, and Kismet locals, Fire Island rental tenants, and Fire Island share parties walking by. The Out is situated on a prime Fire Island real estate corner lot; no matter where you sit, you’ll have a great view. If you elect to dally, The Out transforms into a hip nightspot with karaoke and dancing during the party hours.

The voyage to The Out should be treated as part of the overall experience. Driving to Robert Moses field 5 shows some pleasing Jones Beach views. The boardwalk and dune road walk to Kismet is a fun way to see some Fire Island beach flora and fauna. And up close, the Fire Island Lighthouse is truly majestic sight, a New York State icon that has become a highly recognizable symbol of Long Island.

Step in to The Out – this is more than a Fire Island restaurant, but a relaxing experience that encompasses friendly service, breathtaking views, good food, and the essence of Fire Island community.

Flynn’s Fire Island Review

Flynn’s Fire Island, located in the Ocean Bay Park community, is perhaps bestknown as one of the hottest nightspots that Fire Island has to offer. In an ironicconvergence of opposites, the lively Flynn's is situated just west of the impenetrable fortress-like fence of the quiet, private Point ‘o’ Woods Fire Island community.

Flynn’s is spacious and open, with garage doors that pull up to create an open-air bayside environment in the indoor dining area. Designed to accommodate both diners and revelers, Flynn’s features outside dining next to their private dock; an indoor bar and seating; and an outdoor tiki bar. Overall, Flynn’s usage of space creates the illusion that it is bigger on the inside than it appears on the outside – with ample space between tables, the feng shui of the place feels relaxed and soothing.

Flynn’s Fire Island restaurant offers an enticing package deal that rolls together parking at the Ocean Bay Park ferry terminal, Fire Island ferry ticket price, and a three-course meal plus a beer, wine, or soda -- for $39. This deal, known as the"Flynn’s Feast," features a decent selection of entrées, choice of either seafood bisque or Flynn’s famous baked clams, salad, and a choice of homemade rice pudding or ice cream cake roll sundae.

Right off the bat, I ordered a Pilsner Urqueli on tap, which arrived with a basket full of flat breads, honey wheat crackers, pumpernickel and plain rolls, along with sweet cream butter and plain salted butter. Noshing on the bread basket and sipping at my beer, I admired my surroundings. Though it was overcast and gloomy, Flynn’s raised garage doors still offered a spectacular view of the Bay, looking out, over and pastthe pleasure vessels that filled the private dock. The interior dining area was a study in white: white chairs, white tablecloths white painted floor, white lantern-shaped lamps hanging from the ceiling. A pleasing aesthetic. A salad arrived, dotted with craisins.

At precisely 8 o'clock, a festive-looking ferry pulled up to Flynn’s dock. As I observed, a seemingly endless stream of passengers disembarked and make their way towards Flynn’s. This was Flynn's party boat, yet another deal the restaurant offers. The Flynn’s party boat excursion includes a ferry ride out of Captree with a full bar inside the vessel, a buffet dinner at Flynn’s, and a return trip back – the buffet is $32, and round-trip ferry ticket is $13. The Flynn’s dinner cruise ferry leaves Captree Boat Basin at 7:00 and returns at 10:45 every Tuesday through Thursday in July and August. I scouted out the buffet and it looked top-notch, so Flynn’s dinner cruise is another enticing package deal to explore in the future.

Flynn’s Famous Baked Clams (three): These were served not on the half shell, but in aluminum baked clam holders – which immediately made me arch an eyebrow. But the first taste revealed that these baked clams were some serious business -- nothing to do to shake a clam rake at. Piled high on the aluminum tins, the mixture was chock-full of meaty, juicy clam pieces. The extraordinary accomplishment in these baked clams was their ability to accurately capture and express the pure essence of Great South Bay clams. The best way I can describe this is to say -- and I mean this as a high compliment – Flynn’s baked clams tasted like the bay. They tasted earnest, not trying to mask the clams’ natural flavor with spices, but rather, emphasizing the clams as a main ingredient, and allowing them to shine. The clams must have been incredibly fresh to carry this taste the bay, and it was refreshing and well-appreciated to receive clams served in this form – instead of swimming in garlic or lost among the other complex flavors of a clam chowder. Sometimes, a clam is just a clam -- and that is fine with me. Highly recommended.

Fried Catfish: I ordered the cornmeal crusted fried catfish, which was accompanied by a serving of dirty Cajun-style rice and a vegetable medley of zucchini, summer squash, carrot, and onion, finely chopped. Whoever is cooking behind the scenes At Flynn’s is a thoughtful chef. Whereas other chefs might present a main entrée piece accompanied by two arbitrary side dishes, Flynn’s chef achieved remarkable balance with this offering—presenting three sensations that intermingled beautifully, complementing each other in taste, texture, and spice.
The catfish was piping hot and firm, with a peppery cornmeal crust. The rice, which looked innocuous enough, delivered moderate heat; a slow burn of Cajun spice that played catch-up after the initial bite. The vegetables were perfectly cooked, expressing notes of olive oil and garlic, yet subtle and light -- not overbearing. The sweetness of the vegetables, slow burn of the Cajun rice, and mild, meaty texture of the catfish combined absolutely beautifully; a truly artistic presentation of flavor that reflected the best efforts of an expressive, thoughtful chef. Fabulous – this dish worked so well, it compels me to try more Flynn’s entrees.

Flynn’s Fire Island restaurant service, which had been fantastic until the party boat arrived, suddenly disappeared like a renegade clam off the edge of a clammer’s boat. Plunk, there it went, disappearing into the murky bay. After receiving my main dish, a full 20 minutes passed before my waiter returned. Luckily, the dish was delicious; I did not mind taking my time to savor it. My beer glass sat empty and neglected, however, as I craned my neck for any sign of my waiter. I would've liked to have been asked if I wanted another drink, especially after seeing Flynn's menu of exotic-looking martinis. But by the time my waiter returned, Fire Island ferry anxiety had set in. With my mind set on the 8:50 back to Bay Shore, and the next Ocean Bay Park ferry after that leaving at 10:10, I did not have time to savor a martini. I did insist on dessert (rice pudding, STAT!) along with the check posthaste so I could make my ferry back.

Flynn’s Famous Rice Pudding: Boasted as “homemade,” Flynn’s Fire Island rice pudding delivered. It was cool and creamy, with a dash of cinnamon and wonderful texture. How pleasing the feel of this silky pudding flecked with tender grains of . . . uh-oh, there’s my ferry! I gotta run!

Rachel’s Restaurant Review

My first experience at Rachel’s Fire Island restaurant followed a night of raucous debauchery centered around Houser’s Hideaway bar. Emerging from Houser’s Fire Island hotel groggy and washed out, squinting my eyes against the morning sun, I stumbled into Rachel’s seeking what every hung-over person needs – a damn good diner-style breakfast. At Rachel’s I found it.

Rachel’s host, sensing the pitiful condition of me and my crew, quickly led us to a table, much like a nurse would usher a sick patient to a chair in the waiting room. Coffee followed soon thereafter, along with an entire carafe of ice water – a welcome panacea to the day-after blues. Rachel’s menu revealed a cornucopia of classic breakfast selections, including omelets, croissants and pastries, pancakes, egg sandwiches, and fresh fruit. I ultimately selected the Southwest Breakfast Burrito . . . a soft flour tortilla densely packed and overstuffed with scrambled eggs, potatoes, peppers, and cheese. Words cannot describe how good this burrito tasted. As the coffee and water continued to flow, I emerged from the hangover stupor, refreshed and ready to tackle the day. Thanks, Rachel!

Of steadier body and mind I recently returned, to assess Rachel’s Fire Island restaurant with a deeper perspective than that of a bleary-eyed victim of overindulgence with a jones for a good breakfast. On my return to Rachel’s the deeper I dug, the more well-pleased I became.

Rachel’s is important to the Fire Island community – not so much because it’s been around since 1975, or because it’s a landmark of sorts in Ocean Beach – but because of what it represents. Rachel’s is the reliable, versatile standby that every town should possess – making it all the more valuable for an island town like Ocean Beach. Rachel’s is the place where you can get a top-notch breakfast during dinner hours, if you so desire. Rachel’s is the town bakery, with confections so decadent, they exceed the offerings of mainland bakeries. Rachel’s has a simple burgers-wraps-sandwiches-fries lunch menu, but expands to more exotic international fare for dinner hours. Finally, Rachel’s is a café where you can get an outstanding mocha latte – a godsend for Starbucks junkies who’ve been painfully aware of the lack of green sea goddess logos since they disembarked the Fire Island ferry.

Rachel’s menu has less of a seafood emphasis than other Fire Island restaurants, instead focusing on a diverse array of pasta, meat, and international dishes like Brazilian Paella, Chicken Parmigiana, Southern Style Fried Chicken, Seafood Risotto, Fajitas, and Rigatoni & Sausage. The average price of a dinner entrée is about $20.

The lunch menu focuses on wraps, grilled sandwiches, and burgers, with some of the more intriguing choices including the Spinach & Egg Classic, Caribbean Chicken Breast sandwich, and Crazy Ed’s Smashed Sandwich. Exploring the menu, I chose and dined:

Tropical Stuffed Crab Cakes ($12.99): Typical crab cakes these were not . . . this dish consisted of three crab shells, stuffed with crab cake mixture, baked and then slathered with big hunks of juicy hot pineapple and a spicy-sweet tropical jerk sauce. At first I thought this dish was way too sweet, and questioned the pairing of such sweetness with crab. But then, I found that I simply couldn’t stop eating it. I demolished the dish. The crab cake mixture was consistent in texture, very finely chopped crabmeat, peppers, and breadcrumbs – likely pulsed together in a food processor. The mixture lacked the form and crispiness of a simple pan-fried crab cake, but was smooth and delicious.

Beach Burger ($11.99): But can Rachel’s do a burger? Of course they can, and at lunch, the burgers dominate Rachel’s menu. When the craving for a burger trumps fancier dining, Rachel’s is the laid-back diner-style burger emporium which has the Art Of The Burger down to a science. Rachel’s offers burger creations like the feta/sun dried tomato Tuscan Burger and New Mexican Burger with green chile and cheddar. . . I decided on the Beach burger with cheddar cheese, guacamole, and bacon. Cooked medium rare, juicy and served on what appeared to be a home-baked Kaiser roll, the Beach Burger approached burger perfection and satisfied my burger craving. The dish was served with crispy fries and a pickle in true diner fashion. Tune in next season to see where Rachel’s lands on the list of Top Burgers of Fire Island.

Oatmeal-Raisin Brownie with Caramel: Following lunch, I entered Rachel’s bakery intending to buy a chocolate chip cookie – the bakery staple that formed the foundation of the restaurant’s success. Standing before the glass bakery case, however, my head began to spin with the dizzying possibilities beyond a simple cookie. I elected for the oatmeal brownie because it looked too good to be true. I never had a confection like this before. The brownie was rich and dense, with the indulgent texture of an oatmeal cookie, flecked with juicy raisins, and literally oozing the gooiest, stickiest caramel sauce imaginable. If this is any indication of the other confections behind the glass case, I must return to eat them ALL.

Mocha Latte: Prepared by a real French Barista, this latte hit the spot – and served as the perfect complement to the aforementioned oatmeal brownie. Rachel’s café section features a limited menu (in the context of Starbucks and other full-fledged cafes) of coffee and espresso drinks, with a predictably inflated price. Be prepared for sticker shock – my “small” mocha latte cost $4.95. Of course, true latte-holics will be more than willing to pay the price to get their fix.

Rachel’s Fire Island restaurant is the diner of Ocean Beach. Its high ceiling and wood interior create a chill-out atmosphere that seems well-appreciated by the Fire Island share tenants and Fire Island rental vacationers that filled the restaurant. Its fast-moving and diverse international waitstaff were attentive and competent, ever ready to refill a coffee mug or check on progress. For breakfast, bakery goods, coffee or a casual lunch, Rachel’s is a slam dunk. Rachel’s dinner menu remains to be explored, but all signs indicate that this is a relaxed gem on the west side of Ocean Beach’s main street, with all the deliciousness of fancier fare and none of the presumptuousness.