Sunday, August 12, 2007

The Out Restaurant – Kismet, Fire Island Review

The Out at Kismet is one of the only Fire Island restaurants that can be reached by dry land – no Fire Island ferry necessary! Parking at Robert Moses State Park's Field 5, The Out is a short 20-30 minute walk away, with options of taking boardwalk, a sandy road behind the dunes, or a romantic stroll along the beach. Taking the behind-the-dunes route leads one right past the Fire Island Lighthouse, providing a spectacular view, worthy of a New York travel guide’s front cover.

The Out is straightforward. Founded in 1974, The Out gets its name from its across-the-walk competition, the 70-year-old Inn. The Out’s founder, a Cornell graduate who wisely chose the life of a “beach bum,” dubbed his restaurant The Out, reasoning "If there’s an Inn, there’s gotta be an Out.”

Arriving at The Out after a pleasant walk from Robert Moses Field 5, I told the hostess that I was “just one," looking for a table. Lee, the head hostess, swooped in out of nowhere and said, "We don’t like to hear that! You're not just one, you are special!" Lee's words made this "special" patron feel very good, and proved The Out’s menu history true, which states, "We have greeted and hosted many celebrities (just like you!)." Unfortunately, The Outside deck was jam-packed with people on a Wednesday night.

"Here," said Lee, beckoning. "Follow me, I have a special seat just for you." Lee led me into The Out’s spacious inside seating, and presented me with a spot at the corner of the bar, right in front of a wide window that featured a beautiful vista of the great South Bay, dotted with Long Island fishing boats, pleasure vessels, and Fire Island ferry boats. Enhanced by the declining sun, the view soon became lush and vibrant with dramatic shades of lavender, salmon, and red.

Agonizing over Blue Moon Wheat, Stella Artois, and Blue Point beer on tap, I settled on a pint of Blue Point Toasted Lager and perused the menu. The Out features theme nights during the week, including a Lobster Bash on Tuesdays and Clam Bake on Thursdays. As luck would have it, I was smack dab in the middle of “Windfall Wednesday" – a three-course pre fixe dinner, plus salad, rolls and a glass of wine, for $28. Windfall Wednesday seemed the proper thing to do.

Selection on a three-course meal was adequate; including clams oreganato appetizer, herb crusted salmon, simply grilled mahi mahi, and more – the regular menu emphasized seafood, with a tip of the hat to southern barbecue and steaks. I made my selection and ordered, drinking in the bay view and sipping at my beer.

Tuna Skewers: Two skewers, each with two juicy hunks of fresh tuna, lightly seared and sprinkled with sesame seeds. Accompaniments included wasabi foam, which had the flavor of mild wasabi and the texture of cool-whip; pickled ginger; and soy sauce. This selection evoked sushi, but did not quite achieve it -- regardless, it was a satisfying dish.

Clams Oreganato ($6.75, ordered separately from Windfall Wednesday): Five fresh clams baked in the half shell, with a topping of garlic, breadcrumbs, butter and Parmesan cheese. This simple recipe was executed to perfection, rich and savory, nice and heavy on the garlic, with that magical combination of crispy exterior and warm, garlicky, chewy interior.

Stuffed Half-Lobster & 10 oz. Sirloin. The half lobster was presented dramatically, piled high with seafood stuffing. Attacking the crustacean, I found that the actual lobster meat was skimpy, however – breadcrumbs dominated the stuffing, far outweighing the seafood, which ultimately conjured up the stuffing of a Thanksgiving turkey: light, fluffy, and delicately seasoned with sweetness. The sirloin, ordered medium rare, was slightly overdone – yet still juicy, tender and thick, with attractive criss-cross grill marks. Steamed cauliflower, broccoli, and baby carrots accompanied the entrée – which were so perfectly cooked, they reminded me how good a simple steamed vegetable can be.

Warm Brownie: A good-sized perfectly square brownie topped with a teaspoon of whipped cream and a drizzle of chocolate syrup. Expecting a simple dessert, I was taken aback by the brownie’s decadence – it was hot and gooey, like a confection pulled from the oven prematurely; like hot brownie batter. The molten center still possessed the expression of pure brownie; the sensation of granules of sugar, the thick, goopy chocolaty goodness. A superb conclusion to his solid meal.

The Out is a charismatic, casual restaurant. Its straightforward, honest nature defies the presumption of fancier restaurants, and perfectly complements the relaxed Kismet/Fire Island beach lifestyle. The Out’s Windfall Wednesday is one of the best values on all of Fire Island, and the economy of this deal made it easy to forgive some of the negatives – the lobster was not gourmet, nor was the stuffing. But for the price? Out-standing.

The good of The Out: service was top-notch. Adam, the bartender who served double duty as my waiter, moved with lightning speed and conducted himself with class -- how often do you hear a bartender say, "May I offer you something?" Lee, the hostess, was attentive and sweetly sincere – and she checked on me a few times to make sure that I was doing well, and was profusely apologetic for being unable to seat me outside.

Outside seating fills up quick at The Out, so arrive early for the best views of the bay, sunset, and Kismet locals, Fire Island rental tenants, and Fire Island share parties walking by. The Out is situated on a prime Fire Island real estate corner lot; no matter where you sit, you’ll have a great view. If you elect to dally, The Out transforms into a hip nightspot with karaoke and dancing during the party hours.

The voyage to The Out should be treated as part of the overall experience. Driving to Robert Moses field 5 shows some pleasing Jones Beach views. The boardwalk and dune road walk to Kismet is a fun way to see some Fire Island beach flora and fauna. And up close, the Fire Island Lighthouse is truly majestic sight, a New York State icon that has become a highly recognizable symbol of Long Island.

Step in to The Out – this is more than a Fire Island restaurant, but a relaxing experience that encompasses friendly service, breathtaking views, good food, and the essence of Fire Island community.

1 comment:

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