Flynn’s Fire Island Review

Flynn’s Fire Island, located in the Ocean Bay Park community, is perhaps bestknown as one of the hottest nightspots that Fire Island has to offer. In an ironicconvergence of opposites, the lively Flynn's is situated just west of the impenetrable fortress-like fence of the quiet, private Point ‘o’ Woods Fire Island community.

Flynn’s is spacious and open, with garage doors that pull up to create an open-air bayside environment in the indoor dining area. Designed to accommodate both diners and revelers, Flynn’s features outside dining next to their private dock; an indoor bar and seating; and an outdoor tiki bar. Overall, Flynn’s usage of space creates the illusion that it is bigger on the inside than it appears on the outside – with ample space between tables, the feng shui of the place feels relaxed and soothing.

Flynn’s Fire Island restaurant offers an enticing package deal that rolls together parking at the Ocean Bay Park ferry terminal, Fire Island ferry ticket price, and a three-course meal plus a beer, wine, or soda -- for $39. This deal, known as the"Flynn’s Feast," features a decent selection of entrées, choice of either seafood bisque or Flynn’s famous baked clams, salad, and a choice of homemade rice pudding or ice cream cake roll sundae.

Right off the bat, I ordered a Pilsner Urqueli on tap, which arrived with a basket full of flat breads, honey wheat crackers, pumpernickel and plain rolls, along with sweet cream butter and plain salted butter. Noshing on the bread basket and sipping at my beer, I admired my surroundings. Though it was overcast and gloomy, Flynn’s raised garage doors still offered a spectacular view of the Bay, looking out, over and pastthe pleasure vessels that filled the private dock. The interior dining area was a study in white: white chairs, white tablecloths white painted floor, white lantern-shaped lamps hanging from the ceiling. A pleasing aesthetic. A salad arrived, dotted with craisins.

At precisely 8 o'clock, a festive-looking ferry pulled up to Flynn’s dock. As I observed, a seemingly endless stream of passengers disembarked and make their way towards Flynn’s. This was Flynn's party boat, yet another deal the restaurant offers. The Flynn’s party boat excursion includes a ferry ride out of Captree with a full bar inside the vessel, a buffet dinner at Flynn’s, and a return trip back – the buffet is $32, and round-trip ferry ticket is $13. The Flynn’s dinner cruise ferry leaves Captree Boat Basin at 7:00 and returns at 10:45 every Tuesday through Thursday in July and August. I scouted out the buffet and it looked top-notch, so Flynn’s dinner cruise is another enticing package deal to explore in the future.

Flynn’s Famous Baked Clams (three): These were served not on the half shell, but in aluminum baked clam holders – which immediately made me arch an eyebrow. But the first taste revealed that these baked clams were some serious business -- nothing to do to shake a clam rake at. Piled high on the aluminum tins, the mixture was chock-full of meaty, juicy clam pieces. The extraordinary accomplishment in these baked clams was their ability to accurately capture and express the pure essence of Great South Bay clams. The best way I can describe this is to say -- and I mean this as a high compliment – Flynn’s baked clams tasted like the bay. They tasted earnest, not trying to mask the clams’ natural flavor with spices, but rather, emphasizing the clams as a main ingredient, and allowing them to shine. The clams must have been incredibly fresh to carry this taste the bay, and it was refreshing and well-appreciated to receive clams served in this form – instead of swimming in garlic or lost among the other complex flavors of a clam chowder. Sometimes, a clam is just a clam -- and that is fine with me. Highly recommended.

Fried Catfish: I ordered the cornmeal crusted fried catfish, which was accompanied by a serving of dirty Cajun-style rice and a vegetable medley of zucchini, summer squash, carrot, and onion, finely chopped. Whoever is cooking behind the scenes At Flynn’s is a thoughtful chef. Whereas other chefs might present a main entrée piece accompanied by two arbitrary side dishes, Flynn’s chef achieved remarkable balance with this offering—presenting three sensations that intermingled beautifully, complementing each other in taste, texture, and spice.
The catfish was piping hot and firm, with a peppery cornmeal crust. The rice, which looked innocuous enough, delivered moderate heat; a slow burn of Cajun spice that played catch-up after the initial bite. The vegetables were perfectly cooked, expressing notes of olive oil and garlic, yet subtle and light -- not overbearing. The sweetness of the vegetables, slow burn of the Cajun rice, and mild, meaty texture of the catfish combined absolutely beautifully; a truly artistic presentation of flavor that reflected the best efforts of an expressive, thoughtful chef. Fabulous – this dish worked so well, it compels me to try more Flynn’s entrees.

Flynn’s Fire Island restaurant service, which had been fantastic until the party boat arrived, suddenly disappeared like a renegade clam off the edge of a clammer’s boat. Plunk, there it went, disappearing into the murky bay. After receiving my main dish, a full 20 minutes passed before my waiter returned. Luckily, the dish was delicious; I did not mind taking my time to savor it. My beer glass sat empty and neglected, however, as I craned my neck for any sign of my waiter. I would've liked to have been asked if I wanted another drink, especially after seeing Flynn's menu of exotic-looking martinis. But by the time my waiter returned, Fire Island ferry anxiety had set in. With my mind set on the 8:50 back to Bay Shore, and the next Ocean Bay Park ferry after that leaving at 10:10, I did not have time to savor a martini. I did insist on dessert (rice pudding, STAT!) along with the check posthaste so I could make my ferry back.

Flynn’s Famous Rice Pudding: Boasted as “homemade,” Flynn’s Fire Island rice pudding delivered. It was cool and creamy, with a dash of cinnamon and wonderful texture. How pleasing the feel of this silky pudding flecked with tender grains of . . . uh-oh, there’s my ferry! I gotta run!