Matthew’s Seafood House Review

From the moment you set foot in Matthew's Seafood House, you get the sense that here is a restaurant that’s doing it right. They've had enough practice - one of the oldest eateries in Fire Island, New York, Matthew's Seafood House has been serving up fresh seafood delights for over 30 years. When I arrived with my friend Jenny, the mercury had hit about 95 degrees; the blazing Fire Island beach sun made it feel even hotter. The first thing I saw upon setting foot in Matthew's Seafood House was a chalkboard advertising a drink special: Frozen Mike's Hard Lemonade, $3.50 per. See what I mean about Matthew’s Seafood House doing it right?

Brett, the amicable, laid-back bleached-blonde host, led us to the outside dining area and sat us next to the bay, looking out over the private Matthew’s Seafood House dock. The ambiance of Matthew’s Seafood House is fantastic. The outside dining area has a Fire Island driftwood-and-boardwalk feel; casual yet stylish. As sunlight filters through the lofty green translucent roof, it casts an ethereal green glow over the entire dining area. This green glow inspired relaxation, provided shade, and had a subliminal "cooling" effect.

Matthew’s Seafood House is a choice piece of Fire Island real estate with stunning bay views; it is hard to imagine a more relaxing dining environment. The bay gently laps the shore, refreshing bay zephyrs meander through the tables, and you can watch the Ocean Beach Fire Island ferry arrive and depart, as visitors disembark and flock to Fire Island beaches.

Despite the calm, lazy summer feel at Matthew’s Seafood at lunchtime, there were hints of a more vibrant nightlife. A disco ball hung motionless, but Matthew’s Seafood House features a margarita night on Thursdays, when the sparkly ball starts spinning for the weekend. Matthew’s Seafood House’s sound system looked impressive - ready to rock out or launch an Ocean Beach Fire Island party. During lunch, soft, soothing jazz weaved a pleasing aural atmosphere.

Mike's Frozen Hard Lemonade ($3.50 . . . I had three for a bargain $10.50) - In the midst of a brutal heat wave, after baking in the sun on Fire Island beaches, these bottled malt beverages - frozen into a slurpee-like consistency and garnished with a wedge of fresh lemon - transform into pure orgasmic refreshment. Be careful though - I foolishly attacked my frozen drink with too much gusto and paid the price: 60 seconds of blinding brain freeze, the kind that makes you squeeze one eye closed and bang your fist on the table.

Hot Combo Appetizer ($19) - What better way to get a quick gauge of Matthew’s Seafood House’s approach to seafood? The hot combo included crab cakes, fried calamari, baked clams, and shrimp scampi. The crab cake is a barometer of a seafood restaurant’s chops. Crab cake mastery bodes well for the entire menu. Matthew’s crab cakes were outstanding; firm hunks of lump crab meat that flaked beautifully off the cake, which had a nicely browned crust. Calamari was A-OK, crispy and hot, perfectly cooked. The baked clams delivered art in consistency; the crust gave way to an interior that was hot, creamy and savory, all embracing a soft-yet-chewy littleneck clam. The shrimp scampi was on-point - sweet, meaty shrimp swimming in garlicky olive oil, just the way I like it.

Cajun Mahi Mahi Sandwich ($13) - It's amazing how good food can be in pure simplicity. Matthew’s Seafood House’s Cajun mahi mahi sandwich featured a generous slab of pan-seared mahi mahi and little else - which allowed the fish to shine through. Sublime simplicity. The firm white mahi mahi flesh had a vibrant red crust, having liberally rubbed with Cajun spices. The mahi mahi was very fresh; mild and light, with a satisfying, meaty texture. Each bite was balanced - a spicy wave of Cajun spice followed the delicate flavor of mahi mahi, adding a sense of adventure to the dish. I savored the spicy slow burn before cooling my palate with a sip of frozen hard lemonade. For a side, I opted for the pesto swirl pasta salad, which was cool, creamy, and intriguing.

Shrimp Stuffed Lobster Cold Platter ($28) - Across the table, Jenny pulled a succulent hunk of lobster tail from the shell, and selected a couple of shrimp for me to sample. I eyed her dish with envy. The presentation of her cold platter was dramatic; a lobster split lengthwise, stuffed and smothered with a salad of plump, juicy shrimp; sliced hard-boiled egg; fresh cucumber; and cool, thick tomato slices. Sensible woman . . . 95 degrees out and I chose a spicy mahi mahi sandwich; she chose a cold, refreshing platter that looked spectacular. I ordered another frozen hard lemonade to spite her before trying her dish. The lobster was firm and juicy; the shrimp were choice and sweet - an ideal dish to mitigate blistering heat.

Matthew’s Seafood House has impeccable service. Brett, our host, was friendly and attentive. His relaxed demeanor set a tone that others can only follow. Some Fire Island rental tenants dined next to us; other patrons cruised in by boat and docked at Matthew’s Seafood House for lunch. Brett treated each guest with the same welcoming smile, and everyone instantly felt at home. Our server apologized profusely for the entrees arriving shortly after the appetizers - but it was impossible to complain about our table creaking under the weight of so many delicious dishes.

Lunch at Matthew’s inspires one to return for dinner, to explore a fuller menu of mainly seafood fare. Attention to detail shines through in Matthew’s Seafood House menu - there are even suggested wine pairings with each dish; perfect for aspiring sommeliers. Matthew’s Seafood House’s relaxed lunch atmosphere turns bustling in evening hours, as Fire Island visitors, Fire Island renters, and Ocean Beach locals swarm to partake in one of the true original Fire Island restaurants. For lunch, the scene was mellow - which, for me, made Matthew’s Seafood House an oasis of pleasure in the middle of a sweltering Fire Island day.